How to Waterproof and Storm-Proof Your Tent

The Difference Between Waterproof and Storm-Ready

All of our glamping tents ship waterproof. The 900D PU-coated Oxford fabric, sealed seams, and PVC groundsheet all work together to keep water out of the interior. Out of the box, you can hose down our tents and the inside stays dry.

But "waterproof" doesn't mean "stays waterproof forever," and "waterproof" doesn't mean "storm-ready." Those are two different things. A tent can be perfectly sealed against rain and still get pushed over by sustained 35 mph wind if the anchoring isn't right. A tent can be properly staked and still leak through a deteriorated seam after three seasons of UV exposure. Storm readiness is the combination of fabric integrity, structural anchoring, and seasonal maintenance.

This post covers what to do before, during, and after the storms that any outdoor structure is going to face. If you're running a glamping operation or keeping a tent up for extended periods, this is the maintenance side of the business that determines whether your tents last one year or fifteen.

What Makes a Tent Waterproof in the First Place

Three things, in this order of importance:

Fabric. Our tents use 900D PU-coated Oxford canvas. The "900D" refers to the denier (the thickness of the fibers), and 900 is heavy-duty by tent standards. Most camping tents use 70D-150D fabric. The PU (polyurethane) coating on the fabric is the actual waterproof layer. Water beads on the surface and runs off instead of soaking through. The 900D base material is what gives the coating something durable to bond to.

Seams. Anywhere two pieces of fabric are sewn together, water can potentially wick through the thread holes. Quality tents address this with seam tape or seam sealant applied during manufacturing. Over time, with flex and UV exposure, seams can degrade and need re-sealing.

The groundsheet. The floor of the tent is where water collects from underneath. Our PVC groundsheets are completely waterproof and seal to the tent body with a zipper system that locks out moisture from the ground.

If any of these three fails, water gets in. Maintenance is the practice of catching small problems with each one before they become leaks.

Pre-Storm Preparation

Most glamping tent damage happens not from the strongest storms but from being unprepared for ordinary ones. A few minutes of inspection before any predicted weather can prevent hours of repair later.

Check Guy Lines and Stakes

Walk the entire perimeter of the tent and check every guy line. They should be tight, not slack. The fabric should be tensioned outward evenly, not bunched or sagging anywhere. Stakes should be fully driven, angled away from the tent at about 45 degrees, and seated in solid ground. If a stake pulls out with hand pressure, drive it deeper or replace it with a longer stake.

For seasonal setups, guy lines stretch over time. Re-tensioning monthly is a good baseline. Before a major weather event, re-tension everything. This is the single most important step in storm preparation.

Inspect Seams and Stitches

Look closely at the seams on the roof and sides of the tent. You're looking for any place where the stitching has pulled, where the fabric has separated from the seam, or where you can see daylight through what should be a sealed joint. Small issues are easy to fix. Pretend storms aren't going to find them and they'll be major leaks the next time it rains.

For known weak points (seams that have leaked before, areas of heavy stress), apply seam sealant proactively. Aquaseal is the go-to product for this. Apply it on the interior side of the seam, let it cure fully (usually 24 hours), and the seam is sealed for another season.

Close Up Skylights and Transparent Panels

The Astral's stargazer skylight, the Jellyfish's transparent TPU panels, and any other clear elements should be inspected before storms. The vinyl and TPU materials are durable but can develop micro-cracks over time, especially if UV-blocker spray hasn't been applied recently. Run your hand across the surface and check for any roughness, brittleness, or visible cracking. If you see issues, apply UV-blocker spray (included with the Astral) and consider replacement if the damage is severe.

Secure Window Flaps and Door Closures

All zippers should run smoothly. If any are sticking or snagging, clean them with a soft brush and apply a zipper lubricant or beeswax. A zipper that fails during a storm leaves an opening you can't close until the weather passes. Window flap covers should be secured down with their elastic cords. The exterior seam flap around the base of the tent should be tucked under and secured.

Add a Fly Cover If You Have One

The Astral Cover sits over the top of the Astral tent and creates an additional waterproof layer with an air gap between it and the main tent body. For predicted heavy rain, putting the cover on adds a significant margin of protection. The cover also blocks UV during fair weather, which extends the life of the tent fabric and skylight.

Clear Drainage Around the Tent

Walk the perimeter and look for any low spots where water could pool against the tent. If the ground slopes toward the tent, dig a small drainage channel to redirect water away. Make sure leaves, sticks, or debris aren't blocking natural drainage paths. The PVC groundsheet handles ground moisture well, but you don't want standing water touching the base of the tent for hours.

During the Storm

The right move during a storm is almost always to leave the tent alone. The fabric is designed to flex. The frame (whether pole or air beam) is designed to absorb wind energy. The guy lines tighten and loosen as the structure responds to gusts. Trying to "help" by holding poles or adjusting things in real time usually makes situations worse.

The exceptions are:

A guy line breaks or pulls loose. If it's safe to do so, re-secure or replace it immediately. A tent with one missing guy line is at significantly higher risk of structural damage from continued wind.

You see active water intrusion. If water is coming in through a specific point (a seam, a zipper, a tear), note where so you can address it after the storm. Don't try to repair during the storm. The fix won't hold on wet fabric and you'll just expose more of the interior to weather.

An air beam tent loses pressure. For the Jellyfish specifically, if you notice the structure starting to deflate, locate the valve cap and check that it's fully secured. The one-way inflation valve holds pressure reliably, but if it has somehow been bumped open, recapping it solves the issue.

You see actual structural failure. A center pole bending, an air beam visibly losing shape, or fabric ripping. At that point, the priority is getting people out of the tent. Don't worry about saving the structure. Move people to vehicles or other shelter.

Post-Storm Inspection

After every significant weather event, walk through this checklist:

Visual Inspection of Fabric and Seams

Look at the entire tent from the outside, then the inside. Check for new tears, frays, or stretched areas. Pay attention to high-stress points like where guy lines attach to the fabric and around door zippers. Small tears can be patched with the self-adhesive repair patches included with the tent. Larger tears need stitching and seam sealant for a durable repair.

Re-Tension Guy Lines

Wind shifts stakes and stretches lines. Walk the perimeter and re-tension everything. Drive stakes deeper if they've been pulled partially out by wind force.

Check the Interior for Moisture

Wipe down any interior surfaces that show moisture. Open all windows and roof vents to let the tent dry out. Trapped moisture leads to mold, which is much harder to deal with than a one-time wipe-down. If furniture or bedding got wet, take it outside to dry in the sun before returning it to the tent.

Inspect the Groundsheet

Lift the perimeter of the groundsheet (or the zipper-attached PVC floor) and check that water hasn't accumulated underneath. If it has, dry the area thoroughly before reseating the groundsheet. Standing water trapped under a tent leads to mold growth on the underside of the floor, which compromises the waterproof barrier over time.

Test Zippers

Run every zipper open and closed. Storms can drive grit and debris into zipper teeth, causing them to bind or jam. Brush out any visible material and re-lubricate if needed.

Long-Term Weatherproofing Maintenance

Beyond storm-specific preparation, the long-term durability of a tent depends on consistent seasonal maintenance.

Annual Seam Re-Sealing

Once per season (or every other season for tents that see less use), apply seam sealant to all major seams. This is preventive maintenance. Don't wait for a leak. Aquaseal applied along the interior of all roof and sidewall seams creates a fresh waterproof barrier that adds years to the tent's effective life.

PU Coating Refresh

The PU coating on the fabric does degrade over time, especially with heavy UV exposure. A water-repellent refresher spray (Nikwax or similar) restores beading and water shedding when applied to a clean, dry tent. This isn't necessary every year for most operations, but watching for water absorption (instead of beading) on the fabric is the signal that a refresh is due.

UV Protection

Apply UV-blocker spray (included with the Astral) to transparent skylight panels at the start of each season. For tents in high-UV environments (desert regions, high altitude), a mid-season application is also worthwhile. Consider the Astral Cover as an additional layer of UV protection that extends the life of both the fabric and the skylight.

Dry Storage

If you ever pack a tent away while it's wet, you create the conditions for mold growth that compromises both the fabric and the waterproof coating. Never store a tent wet. If you have to take it down in rain, set it back up at the earliest opportunity in a dry location to fully air it out before bagging it. Our tent cleaning and maintenance guide covers off-season storage in more detail.

Choosing Tents for Stormy Regions

If you're operating in a region with significant weather (Gulf Coast hurricanes, Midwest thunderstorms, Pacific Northwest sustained rain, mountain storm cycles), tent selection matters more than in mild climates.

All of our tents use the same 900D PU-coated Oxford fabric and PVC groundsheets, so the base waterproof construction is consistent. The differences come down to structural design and supplementary features.

For sustained high winds: The Astral and Eclipse with their multi-pole construction (center pole plus wall poles plus guy line tensioning) have been tested through 45+ mph gusts in customer setups. The Jellyfish handles 30+ mph with proper staking, and the lower silhouette of the air beam design has aerodynamic advantages in some wind scenarios.

For heavy snow loads: The Geodesic Dome is the strongest choice. The curved surface sheds snow naturally and the steel frame distributes loads across the structure in a way that fabric tents can't match. For glamping operations in snowy regions, a dome as your premium tier alongside fabric tents for the standard tier is a smart combination.

For sustained rain: The Astral Cover creates an additional waterproof layer over the Astral tent body. For wet climates (Pacific Northwest, coastal Maine, Florida), the cover provides significant additional weather protection and extends the practical life of the tent fabric underneath.

For lightning-prone regions: No tent is fully lightning-safe. The tallest object in an open area attracts strikes. If you're operating in a high-lightning region, position tents under tree cover when possible (not directly under a single tall tree, but within a stand where the tent isn't the highest point), and educate guests about lightning safety procedures.

Get Started

Storm readiness starts with the right tent and is maintained through consistent seasonal care. Browse our tent collection to see specifications for each model. The Astral Cover is worth considering for any Astral in a wet or sunny climate. For broader maintenance guidance, our tent cleaning and maintenance guide covers cleaning, off-season storage, and general care.

Questions about weatherproofing for your specific climate? Contact our team. We've helped customers in every climate zone in North America and we're happy to talk through what works for yours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are glamping tents waterproof?

Yes. All of our tents use 900D PU-coated Oxford fabric with sealed seams and waterproof PVC groundsheets. This is genuine waterproof construction, not just water-resistant. Out of the box, our tents handle rain without water reaching the interior. Maintenance (seam sealing, PU coating refresh, dry storage) keeps them waterproof over years of use.

How much wind can a glamping tent handle?

Our pole tents (Astral, Eclipse, Pyramid) handle 30+ mph sustained winds with proper staking, and have been tested through 45+ mph gusts in real-world customer use. The Jellyfish handles 30+ mph with proper anchoring. The Geodesic Dome handles significantly higher sustained wind loads thanks to its aerodynamic shape and steel frame.

What do I do if my tent leaks?

Locate the leak (during rain is easiest, since you can see exactly where water is coming in). Dry the area thoroughly. Apply seam sealant (Aquaseal works well) to the affected seam on the interior side. Let it cure for 24 hours before exposing it to water again. For tears in the fabric, patch with the self-adhesive repair patches that come with the tent. For larger damage, hand-sew the tear closed first and then seal over the stitching.

How often should I re-waterproof a glamping tent?

Annual seam re-sealing is a good baseline for tents that see regular use. Full PU coating refresh isn't needed until you notice water absorbing into the fabric instead of beading off, which typically happens after several years of heavy use. UV-blocker spray on transparent panels should be applied at the start of each season, and mid-season in high-UV environments.

Can a glamping tent survive a thunderstorm?

Yes, with proper anchoring. Our tents are designed for four-season outdoor use and handle the rain, wind, and lightning of typical thunderstorms without issue. Pre-storm preparation (tightening guy lines, securing window flaps, closing skylights) makes the difference between a tent that rides out the storm and one that gets damaged. For lightning specifically, no tent is fully safe. Position tents within tree cover when possible rather than as the tallest object in an open area.

Should I take my tent down before a storm?

It depends. A properly set up tent with tensioned guy lines and proper staking handles storm conditions better than most people realize. Taking a tent down and putting it back up creates more wear than leaving it through a typical storm. The exception is for forecast extreme weather (sustained winds over 50 mph, hurricane conditions, tornado warnings) where the safest move is to take the tent down and store it properly.